Northern Standard Mallet Shaft: 1 1/2 Months Later

I must admit, I didn’t expect it to go this way.

Before I bought this mallet pole I had heard how Northern Standard, while light as a feather, was prone to bending beyond the traditional bang-it-against-the-bars repair.

I am particularly…active…with my mallets, and I was suspecting perhaps only¬†3 games before I noodled my golden shaft of justice.

Well, it’s been much more than 3 games now, and she’s still workin.

Don’t misunderstand me: the Northern Standard Mallet Shaft definately is getting dings and bends in it. Much more than my Fixcraft LT. I have found cause to straigten it a bit between games (much as we all have with the dollar ski pole finds at Salvo or Goodwill).

But here’s the rub: I think the trade off is worth it. Durability to weight, I mean.

So I bought this mallet for 15 Canadian bucks with 10 American bucks shipping (I’ll do the math for you: it equals bacon with maple syrup on top). If it only lasted one day, it wouldn’t be worth it at all – unless maybe I bought a 3 pack and went to a tourney with them.

But it lasted more than a day, making the expense’s value grow like a little moose in the hinderland.

So now I’ve used it for at least a month, with 8-10 days worth of pickup matches. It’s got dings, dents, and a gentle sloping power curve to it, but it’s still fully functional and SO FREAKING LIGHT.

So what’s the summary here? To make it brief: the Northern Standard Mallet is a good choice if you’re not an axe wielding psycho on the court – it won’t last as a Fixcraft XT or LT, and maybe a little bit less than a thrift shop ski pole find – BUT you’re getting a mallet shaft that weighs as much as a slice of bread in your hand.

For what it’s worth, I plan on going to ESPIs with a fresh NS mallet build, my old NS mallet build, and a Fixcraft LT in case I meet hackasaurus rex on the court.

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3 comments

  1. Crusher says:

    From Lomax’s Facebook comments on this post:

    If you are seeing a significant number of dings and dents in the lower third of your mallet, leave more taper. To get away from nailing your wheel with the shaft, put the ball about a foot or two from your wheel at a direction of about 1:3…0 (45 degrees, give or take for preference). This reduces wheel strike, self-malleting your front wheel, and it makes it a lot harder for defenders to reach around behind you or under your bottom bracket (stick your leg out a bit like a motorcycle racer to absolutely neutralize reach around).

    Lean forward/down into your shot and bring your mallet down like an exponential curve (more dramatic direction change than a circular curve). This keeps your mallet a little more out of the reach of a defender trying to hook it on a chase, and it puts your mallet on a path parallel to the ground/in line with where you want to shoot sooner/longer.

    Also, snap your shot like a boxer’s jab…try to bring it back right after the moment of contact. Excessive follow through slows down second attempts and puts faces in unnecessary danger.

    Changing the approach angle of your shot also increases mallet head life. Instead of duffing it at a 45 degree angle, it hits more like a skipping stone.

  2. Lumberbach says:

    Philly’s Montana once described Capriotti as a “scientist” when i comes to polo. We were talking more about court tactics at the time, but you Lomax are like bike polo’s Galileo – theories about everything.

    Anyway, why would leaving more taper help with the dings and dents?

    and piss-off Kabik – i’ll copy and paste this to the blog myself.

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